I left Kupreanof September 20 for Seattle on the ferry–another disaster which I’ll address in a separate Alaska Ferry Post soon. This time, I drove my new Toyota Tundra on board loaded with all sorts of tug stuff and two coolers of food/halibut, etc. And that gave me the opportunity to drive down to Saxman Village just south of Ketchikan during my 4 hour layover. I wanted to enquire about a totem-log. I ran into the carver of all carvers, Nathan Jackson, who happened to have a dead battery in his truck. I had jumper cables. Well, one good turn deserves another so I got a nice tour of the carving shop. Folks–this is where all Tlingit art happens and this is the master carver of all. Thanks for the tour Nathan–can you find me a red cedar log and carve a totem for the Kupreanof Yacht Club?
Our Alaska ferries are in a real mess. Here is the recently built Hubbard (never launched) and the Columbia behind–Princess of the fleet–tied up at the dock in Ketchikan for over a year. We have only one or two big boats serving us from Bellingham currently–not enough!
Once in Seattle, I hasten off to Hawaii to look at a property and simply relax. I don’t fly any more however, I am forced to take this leap-of-faith once again. So–I choose the new 737-Max. Now, when I enter the cabin, I immediately inquire about the air-worthiness of these new planes and it turns out the Captain, Olaf, is from Oslo Norway–where I played Santa last year. Well, I greet him in Norwegian and one thing leads to another and soon I find my co-pilot seat and it was a very pleasant flight after all. There was a little learning curve with the the new MCAS computer controls– but in all it was a very smooth flight.
I stay with my former dental receptionist at Pike Place Dental (1979-1999), Corin, and her husband Jeff, in Kona. This is nothing like Alaska for sure. They are wonderful hosts–and I spend a month looking over a possible purchase of a house which is more like another Alaska project. I ultimately decline.
The drive to the very south point of Hawaii is always a pleasure . 
At Volcano National Park, Kilauea re-erupts again so I extend my stay and sign posters for the visitors. I spend two days there and everything is sold out! Got to love these volcanoes.
At 5am, I walk down on the rim and watch the lava bubble and flare. Quite a sight, normally not safely observed from the Pacific Rim volcanoes. The Pacific ocean volcanoes are basaltic, which are more fluid and run like rivers as opposed to the more dacitic coastal volcanoes, Mt. St. Helens, which are more plastic and simply explode. If you like geology and volcanoes, this is the place to observe our Earth expanding and evolving.
I made a silkscreen print several years ago which shows the 1923 Kilauea eruption, and just after printing this–damned if it didn’t erupt again! Here I’m signing one of my earlier editions of this print which the entrepreneurial collector singed on the edge on the hot lava bed–he singed and I signed!
Upon returning to Seattle, I took daily walks around Lake Union and passed by the lightship Swiftsure and the Arthur Foss. Sad, but I have to comment here. The Arthur has a new plywood veneer hull and the Swiftsure has rusted away below-decks beyond repair. Take a look:
The twin boilers are rusted with panels fallen away.
A close-up. No excuses–these vessels were entrusted to the NW Seaport in 1972 (Wawona, Swiftsure and Arthur) all in running condition and all are now derelicts.
There is no way to repair or authentically replace this wonderful steam antiquity. Copenhagen’s maritime museum has four functioning lightships. Sweden, two. Same manufacture and design.
Meanwhile back at the shipyard, I endeavor to replace all the 20 years of neglect* of Katahdin–this time with Port Orford Cedar–a miraculously rot-resistant cedar that the Katahdin was initially built with. *neglect in the fact that there are no shipwrights in Alaska that know how to repair wooden boats.
All new deck beams, decks, bulwarks and frame-head repairs. The winch now sits on a full 4″ hardwood pad.
The stern puddin and rope fenders will again be installed to boat-show standards. Rumor has it that Foss is investigating creating a museum in the recently closed shipyard on Lake Union. If true, I will consider donating Katahdin to the museum. Can’t take it with me.
It’s back to base camp at the Intergalactic Headquarters of Ranger Doug’s Enterprises—-hunkered down in the 1948 Airstream awaiting my next adventure…..
I’ve organized the warehouse. You are looking at all of the restored historic WPA prints and the additional 40+ designs of WPA inspired National Park posters. I’m heading off to San Francisco in late November to investigate the National Archives (San Bruno NARA) where I hope to find the rest of this story. My upcoming book depends upon it. Stay tuned……..
