Summer is nearly upon us–or at least the rain is getting warm–and Tucson heats up so I scurry to Seattle where I focus on book displays, podcasts/talks (3) and Katahdin’s steering–but let’s pick up stepping on board the Alaska Marine Highway System’s last of two running boats–the Columbia. This week it was announced that the Matanuska is being permanently retired (along with Malaspina which has became temporary housing for Ukranian refugees). Isn’t this world a mess? So, let’s head north.
The Columbia’s southern terminus–Bellingham. In the “old days” you could catch Columbia right downtown Seattle near Pear 54 (Ivar’s). My first trip to Alaska was 1981: Seattle to Haines, then hitch-hiking north to Anchorage and fly home…..in March! I slept on the back deck w/o a tent.
Today, the same run leaves Bellingham saving a couple hours of cruising time. However, they lose marketing visibility–and customers. Bella Bella lighthouse is always worth a snapshot. It marks the (roughly) half way point and is located where Lama Pass connects to Milbank Sound.
Milbank Sound is a short stretch of open water so seas can be rough here. Queen Charlotte Sound is another (earlier and longer) open water crossing. Dixon Entrance is the third open crossing and can be horrific.
Tent camping is permitted behind this yellow line. The solarium makes a cozy camping spot where lots of folks camp out on reclining deck chairs. Remembering my 1981 adventures, I opt for a stateroom.
Then, there are the “service” animals. This actually isn’t a service animal. It’s an ugly mutt and a selfish owner–and it’s a racket. The internet is now full of bogus “service collar kits” you can buy. Every cruise now people run their dogs up and down the decks, in the galley and bar. I courteously ask them to obey regulations and keep their mutts in dog-cages on the car deck with all the others. And they usually get in my face. Last trip, I complained and received an $842 refund! So–while I like dogs; admire those who navigate through life with a bona-fide handicap for using them, I call these idiots for who they are–selfish people. This “service dog” was so meek and useless, it needed its own service dog……
OK–Finlayson Channel and Grenville Channel are worth the entire trip–and it’s dinner time so one can sit and enjoy dinner, sip wine and enjoy this incredible scenery. These two channels have little anchorage so slower boats need to plan. Marvelous country.
Did I say it’s approaching summer?
It’s approaching Ketchikan. It’s been a very warm and wet winter and spring in Alaska as you’ll see when we start logging.
Here in Ketchikan lies the Matanuska which will be sold or scrapped–and it just had its engines overhauled. The AMHS plans a complete new fleet but I will put 10:1 odds they don’t build one boat simply because we won’t tax ourselves for the services we require–we borrow it from the younger generations. And Alaska gets more federal welfare than any other–and it’s a red state. (I just volunteered to be on the new AMHS steering committee but told them I needed to take the ferries to their meetings in Juneau–so got turned down…..go figure.) Here is the first draft of that plan–the 2045 Long-Range Plan.
At last, there is my log cabin as I enter Petersburg ferry terminal. A friend in Petersburg (on Mitkof Island) puts me up for the night since we arrive about 8:45pm. It’s almost that time of year where there is no darkness. He charges my battery on the boat, gives me a bunk for the night and I open the cabin on a perfectly sunny Monday morning–perfect timing:
Great to be home–the view off my point in the early morning. Petersburg Creek to the left an the edge of the Stikine Icefields on the right.
Devil’s thumb greets me on this first sunny day. Fred Beckey made the first ascent on August 25, 1946–three days before I was born (I’m almost 79 now). I met up with Fred in my 20s and spent five years climbing first ascents with Fred–mainly in the North Cascades. Fred likely has made more first ascents than any other mountaineer–living or dead. He was ahead of his time.
First thing I do after opening the cabin is to build a fire. It got so hot so fast, that the glass door exploded–glass fragments all over the cabin. I was standing right in front of this door a minute before (with my laser thermometer measuring 399F). Planning ahead, I had three door panels made but can’t find it now….. The Tulikivi is also fired up. My floors are buckled (dry-lay cork) and no cabinets will open but otherwise just like I left it. Had lights, heat and hot water within 2 hours. The two new Discovery Batteries (all $12,000 worth) jumped to life at 100% charge with the push of a button. Slookum! And I’m now generating hyro power with all the rain.
Remember the blow-down two years ago? It’s time to act fast and get these logs out before the bugs get them. I bring in an excavator at midnight on the higher tide–here about 17′
My new net-shed looks pretty good after rebuilding all the batten-board siding.
In the morning, I’ll pick up the driver–Don Stevens Jr–and we get to work. Don’s father, is a Petersburg legend–at 84 is still climbing trees, topping them and falling them exactly where they’re supposed to go. He’s also a character.
Hard rain falls and complicates our work. Oh, what a mess!
First step is access–and these boardwalk sections need to be moved aside.
The saltchuck is about 150 down-hill which is fortunate.
Don Jr. cordoroy’s the logs–building a parallel ramp–nine logs in all are moved by grabbing and swinging them down hill. We need to set chokers on these first and drag them to within grabbing distance. In three hours, Don has them all lined up on the beach:
I’ve still some time on the machine so I do some yard cleanup…..
The old siding has been an eye-sore for five years so I stack it in a huge pile on the beach. Summer solstice is coming up so a bonfire will be in order. And gin & tonics will be served!
As I’m doing all this, the Columbia drives by northbound again–it’s been exactly one week but I’ve hit the road running.
This afternoon, the Lituya pickes up the excavator and my beaches can start healing.
One last issue–getting the logs tied together and no one in town has log staples, so I use spikes and some scrap rope. I bought 80′ of towline (which we also used to skid the logs out with) which I’ll tow these 8 miles down the Narrows to the sawmill (next post). Stay tuned!